South Pacific with a side of France in tropical Noumea

At the risk of sounding pretentious we have been struggling lately to think of places to go on holiday. We love Bali and it is always so tempting to return, but after four trips I was craving somewhere new and different! Living in Australia and looking for a holiday in October that would not require a super long haul flight we always came unstuck as the obvious destination, Asia, is in the middle of its monsoon season. The South Pacific has always seemed a good option on paper but we just couldn’t seem to get excited about spending all our time in a resort in Fiji, and we just weren’t sure Vanuatu was for us. But then we stumbled across New Caledonia. The French culture and food, coupled with a great art and cultural centre, a little city to explore, an aquarium, a variety of restaurants to choose from and some spectacular outlining islands had us excited. Plus it is only a two hour flight from Brisbane! Flights are reasonably priced and accommodation not too expensive, with some great options for families, but one downside as we discovered when we arrived, is that the food and drinks are very expensive! Of course self catering is always a good option, especially with little children who don’t like to sit still at restaurants.

I have reserved an entire post for our day trip to Amadee Island, which is just a short boat ride off the coast of Noumea. When you see the photos you will understand why!

Where to stay

There are a lot of places to explore in New Caledonia, but like most people, we decided to spend most of our time in the capital Noumea with a few days on the incredibly picturesque Isle des Pins (which if I had my time again is where I would choose to spend a little more time!).

We chose to stay at the Chateau Royal Beach Resort which is a great affordable choice for families. It is right on Ange Vata Beach, in a convenient location not too far from the shops and restaurants, and has a lovely little pool area. It was my birthday when we were visiting so we splurged on the buffet breakfast and it was definitely worth the money. My four year old daughter was so impressed that we could eat chocolate brownies for breakfast! I also made use of the aquatonic pool, which has a series of different spa jets overlooking a spectacular sea view, as a little birthday treat.

If I had a little more to spend next time I’d love to stay at The Meridian which is right next door and has a fabulous pool area and lovely dining options.

Anse Vata Beach

Right in front of the Chateau Royal Beach Resort and The Meridian is lovely Anse Vata Beach. It is known for it’s excellent kitesurfing and sailing conditions but the waves are sedate enough most days for little children to enjoy the water. First thing in the morning I used to enjoy sitting on the balcony watching the locals do their aquaerobics in the crystal clear, lagoon-still waters. Backing the beach there are loads of restaurants, little shops and ice cream parlours which make it a great place for a late afternoon/early evening stroll (if witching hour hasn’t yet descended!).

Downtown Noumea

Downtown Noumea may not be any rival for many of its French counterparts but it is an interesting little area worth a wander. Start at the market where you can buy handicrafts and souvenirs, indulge in a cafe latte European style and stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables for snacks. The town square Place des Cocotiers is a great place to rest your feet and indulge in some people watching. My little explorers loved playing around the pretty fountain after indulging in a chocolate cake from one of Noumea’s best patisseries L’Atelier Gourmand.

Aquarium

Noumea’s wonderful aquarium is definitely worth a visit, especially if you have little ones with you. It was a great chance to learn a little more about the underwater world, and get closer acquainted with a turtle before our trip to Amadee Island to see them in the wild. It is right next to the Bais des Citron.

Bais des Citron

Bais des Citron is the pick of Noumea’s beaches. A little closer to town than Anse Vata it is a little calmer, has a beautiful wide sandy bay and is backed with a grassy, shady area and plenty of restaurants, bars and ice cream shops (the most important thing, of course, when travelling with children or icecream addicted husbands!). I was lucky enough to celebrate my birthday in Noumea and we really enjoyed having a celebratory drink at MV Lounge, a bar right on the beach with great sunset views, at dusk o’clock. Like everywhere in New Caledonia the drinks were not cheap but we were happy to pay for the location and atmosphere. Plus, my little ones loved having an impromptu dance party under the disco lights.

Lookout

On our last night in Noumea we summoned our last bit of energy and headed up to the lookout at Ouen Toro Hill. At an altitude of just 132 metres it was not too strenuous a walk and was well worth it for the picturesque view over the city, lagoon, surrounding hills and all the way to the lighthouse on Amedee Island.

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